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Travels in England during the reign of Queen Elizabeth by
Paul Hentzner AND Fragmenta Regalia by Sir Robert Naunton.
December, 1999 [Etext #1992]
Project Gutenberg Etext Travels in England AND Fragmenta Regalia
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This etext was transcribed from the 1892 Cassell & Co. edition by
Jane Duff and proofed by David Price, email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk.
Travels in England during the reign of Queen Elizabeth by Paul
Hentzner AND Fragmenta Regalia by Sir Robert Naunton. 1892 Cassell
TRAVELS IN ENGLAND AND FRAGMENTA REGALIA
INTRODUCTION
Queen Elizabeth herself, and London as it was in her time, with
sketches of Elizabethan England, and of its great men in the way of
social dignity, are here brought home to us by Paul Hentzner and Sir
Robert Naunton.
Paul Hentzner was a German lawyer, born at Crossen, in Brandenburg,
on the 29th of January, 1558. He died on the 1st January, 1623. In
1596, when his age was thirty-eight, he became tutor to a young
Silesian nobleman, with whom he set out in 1597 on a three years'
tour through Switzerland, France, England, and Italy. After his
return to Germany in 1600, he published, at Nuremberg, in 1612, a
description of what he had seen and thought worth record, written in
Latin, as "Itinerarium Germaniae, Galliae, Angliae, Italiae, cum
Indice Locorum, Rerum atque Verborum."
Horace Walpole caused that part of Hentzner's Itinerary which tells
what he saw in England to be translated by Richard Bentley, son of
the famous scholar, and he printed at Strawberry Hill two hundred
and twenty copies. In 1797 "Hentzner's Travels in England" were
edited, together with Sir Robert Naunton's "Fragmenta Regalia," in
the volume from which they are here reprinted, with notes by the
translator and the editor.
Sir Robert Naunton was of an old family with large estates, settled
at Alderton, in Suffolk. He was at Cambridge in the latter years of
Elizabeth's reign, having entered as Fellow Commoner at Trinity
College, and obtained a Fellowship at Trinity Hall. Naunton went to
Scotland in 1589 with an uncle, William Ashby, whom Queen Elizabeth
sent thither as Ambassador, and was despatched to Elizabeth's court
from Scotland as a trusty messenger. In 1596-7 he was in France,
and corresponded with the Earl of Essex, who was his friend. After
the fall of Essex he returned to Cambridge, and was made Proctor of
the University in 1601, three years after Paul Hentzner's visit to
England. Then he became Public Orator at Cambridge, and by a speech
made to King James at Hinchinbrook won his Majesty's praise for
Latin and learning. He came to court in the service of Sir James
Overbury, obtained the active friendship of George Villiers Duke of
Buckingham, and was sworn as Secretary of State on the 8th January,
1617. The king afterwards gave Naunton the office of Master of the
Court of Wards and Liveries.
Sir Robert Naunton wrote his recollections of the men who served
Queen Elizabeth when he was near the close of his own life. It was
after 1628, because he speaks of Edward Somerset, Earl of Worcester,
as dead, and before 1632, because he speaks of Sir William Knollys
living as the only Earl of Banbury. He was created Earl of Banbury
in 1626, and died in 1632. The "Fragmenta Regalia" were first
published in 1641, after Sir Robert's death. They were reprinted in
1642 and 1653, since which date they have appeared in various
collections. There was a good edition of them in 1870 among the
very valuable "English Reprints" for which we are indebted to
Professor Edward Arber.
H.M.
TRAVELS IN ENGLAND
We arrived at Rye, a small English seaport. Here, as soon as we
came on shore, we gave in our names to the notary of the place, but
not till he had demanded our business; and being answered, that we
had none but to see England, we were conducted to an inn, where we
were very well entertained; as one generally is in this country.
We took post-horses for London: it is surprising how swiftly they
run; their bridles are very light, and their saddles little more
than a span over.
Flimwell, a village: here we returned our first horses, and mounted
fresh ones.
We passed through Tunbridge, another village.
Chepstead, another village: here, for the second time, we changed
horses.
London, the head and metropolis of England: called by Tacitus,
Londinium; by Ptolemy, Logidinium; by Ammianus Marcellinus,
Lundinium; by foreigners, Londra, and Londres; it is the seat of the
British Empire, and the chamber of the English kings. This most
ancient city is the the county of Middlesex, the fruitfullest and
wholesomest soil in England. It is built on the river Thames, sixty
miles from the sea, and was originally founded, as all historians
agree, by Brutus, who, coming from Greece into Italy, thence into
Africa, next into France, and last into Britain, chose this
situation for the convenience of the river, calling it Troja Nova,
which name was afterwards corrupted into Trinovant. But when Lud,
the brother of Cassibilan, or Cassivelan, who warred against Julius
Caesar, as he himself mentions (lib. v. de Bell. Gall.), came to the
crown, he encompassed it with very strong walls, and towers very
artfully constructed, and from his own name called it Caier Lud,
I.E., Lud's City. This name was corrupted into that of Caerlunda,
and again in time, by change of language, into Londres. Lud, when
he died, was buried in this town, near that gate which is yet called
in Welsh, Por Lud--in Saxon, Ludesgate.
The famous river Thames owes part of its stream, as well as its
appellation, to the Isis; rising a little above Winchelcomb, and
being increased with several rivulets, unites both its waters and
its name to the Thame, on the other side of Oxford; thence, after
passing by London, and being of the utmost utility, from its
greatness and navigation, it opens into a vast arm of the sea, from
whence the tide, according to Gemma Frisius, flows and ebbs to the
distance of eighty miles, twice in twenty-five hours, and, according
to Polydore Vergil, above sixty miles twice in twenty-four hours.
This city being very large of itself, has very extensive suburbs,
and a fort called the Tower, of beautiful structure. It is
magnificently ornamented with public buildings and churches, of
which there are above one hundred and twenty parochial.
On the south is a bridge of stone eight hundred feet in length, of
wonderful work; it is supported upon twenty piers of square stone,
sixty feet high and thirty broad, joined by arches of about twenty
feet diameter. The whole is covered on each side with houses so
disposed as to have the appearance of a continued street, not at all
of a bridge.
Upon this is built a tower, on whose top the heads of such as have
been executed for high treason are placed on iron spikes: we
counted above thirty.
Paulus Jovius, in his description of the most remarkable towns in
England, says all are obscured by London: which, in the opinion of
many, is Caesar's city of the Trinobantes, the capital of all
Britain, famous for the commerce of many nations; its houses are
elegantly built, its churches fine, its towns strong, and its riches
and abundance surprising. The wealth of the world is wafted to it
by the Thames, swelled by the tide, and navigable to merchant ships
through a safe and deep channel for sixty miles, from its mouth to
the city: its banks are everywhere beautified with fine country
seats, woods, and farms; below is the royal palace of Greenwich;
above, that of Richmond; and between both, on the west of London,
rise the noble buildings of Westminster, most remarkable for the
courts of justice, the parliament, and St. Peter's church, enriched
with the royal tombs. At the distance of twenty miles from London
is the castle of Windsor, a most delightful retreat of the Kings of
England, as well as famous for several of their tombs, and for the
ceremonial of the Order of the Garter. This river abounds in swans,
swimming in flocks: the sight of them, and their noise, are vastly
agreeable to the fleets that meet them in their course. It is
joined to the city by a bridge of stone, wonderfully built; is never
increased by any rains, rising only with the tide, and is everywhere
spread with nets for taking salmon and shad. Thus far Paulus
Jovius.
Polydore Vergil affirms that London has continued to be a royal
city, and the capital of the kingdom, crowded with its own
inhabitants and foreigners, abounding in riches, and famous for its
great trade, from the time of King Archeninus, or Erchenvinus. Here
the kings are crowned, and solemnly inaugurated, and the council of
the nation, or parliament, is held. The government of the city is
lodged, by ancient grant of the Kings of Britain, in twenty-four
aldermen--that is, seniors: these annually elect out of their own
body a mayor and two sheriffs, who determine causes according to
municipal laws. It has always had, as indeed Britain in general
has, a great number of men of learning, much distinguished for their
writings.
The walls are pierced with six gates, which, as they were rebuilt,
acquired new names. Two look westward:
- Ludgate, the oldest, so called from King Lud, whose name is yet
to be seen, cut in the stone over the arch on the side; though
others imagine it rather to have been named Fludgate, from a stream
over which it stands, like the Porta Fluentana at Rome. It has been
lately repaired by Queen Elizabeth, whose statue is placed on the
opposite side. And,
2. Newgate, the best edifice of any; so called from being new
built, whereas before it was named Chamberlain gate. It is the
public prison.
On the north are four:
- Aldersgate, as some think from alder trees; as others, from
Aldericius, a Saxon.
2. Cripplegate, from a hospital for the lame.
3. Moorgate, from a neighbouring morass, now converted into a
field, first opened by Francetius {1} the mayor, A.D. 1414.
4. And Bishopsgate, from some bishop: this the German merchants of
the Hans society were obliged by compact to keep in repair, and in
times of danger to defend. They were in possession of a key to open
or shut it, so that upon occasion they could come in, or go out, by
night or by day.
There is only one to the east:
Aldgate, that is, Oldgate, from its antiquity; though others think
it to have been named Elbegate.
Several people believe that there were formerly two gates (besides
that to the bridge) towards the Thames.
- Billingsgate, now a cothon, or artificial port, for the
reception of ships.
2. Dourgate, VULGO Dowgate, I.E., Water-gate.
The cathedral of St. Paul was founded by Ethelbert, King of the
Saxons, and being from time to time re-edified, increased to
vastness and magnificence, and in revenue so much, that it affords a
plentiful support to a bishop, dean, and precentor, treasurer, four
archdeacons, twenty-nine prebendaries, and many others. The roof of
this church, as of most others in England, with the adjoining
steeple, is covered with lead.
On the right side of the choir is the marble tomb of Nicholas Bacon,
with his wife. Not far from this is a magnificent monument,
ornamented with pyramids of marble and alabaster, with this
inscription:
Sacred to the memory of
Sir Christopher Hatton, son of William, grandson of John, of the
most ancient family of the Hattons; one of the fifty gentlemen
pensioners to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth: Gentleman of the privy
chamber; captain of the guards; one of the Privy Council, and High
Chancellor of England, and of the University of Oxford: who, to the
great grief of his Sovereign, and of all good men, ended this life
religiously, after having lived unmarried to the age of fifty-one,
at his house in Holborn, on the 20th of November, A.D. 1591.
William Hatton, knight, his nephew by his sister's side, and by
adoption his son and heir, most sorrowfully raised this tomb, as a
mark of his duty.
On the left hand is the marble monument of William Herbert, Earl of
Pembroke, and his lady: and near it, that of John, Duke of
Lancaster, with this inscription
Here sleeps in the Lord, John of Gant, so called from the city of
the same name of Flanders, where he was born, fourth son of Edward
the Third, King of England, and created by his father Earl of
Richmond. He was thrice married; first to Blanche, daughter and
heiress of Henry Duke of Lancaster; by her he received an immense
inheritance, and became not only Duke of Lancaster, but Earl of
Leicester, Lincoln, and Derby, of whose race are descended many
emperors, kings, princes, and nobles. His second wife was
Constance, who is here buried, daughter and heiress of Peter, King
of Castile and Leon, in whose right he most justly {2} took the
style of King of Castile and Leon. She brought him one only
daughter, Catherine, of whom, by Henry, are descended the Kings of
Spain. His third wife was Catherine, of a knight's family, a woman
of great beauty, by whom he had a numerous progeny; from which is
descended, by the mother's side, Henry the Seventh, the most prudent
King of England, by whose most happy marriage with Elizabeth,
daughter of Edward the Fourth, of the line of York, the two royal
lines of Lancaster and York are united, to the most desired
tranquillity of England.
The most illustrious prince, John, surnamed Plantagenet, King of
Castile and Leon, Duke of Lancaster, Earl of Richmond, Leicester,
and Derby, Lieutenant of Aquitain, High Steward of England, died in
the twenty-first year of Richard II., A.D. 1398.
A little farther, almost at the entrance of the choir, in a certain
recess, are two small stone chests, one of which is thus inscribed:
Here lies Seba, King of the East Saxons, who was converted to the
faith by St. Erkenwald, Bishop of London, A.D. 677.
On the other:
Here lies Ethelred, King of the Angles, son of King Edgar,
On whom St. Dustan is said to have denounced vengeance, on his
coronation day, in the following words:- "Inasmuch as thou hast
aspired to the throne by the death of thy brother, against whose
blood the English, along with thy infamous mother, conspired, the
sword shall not pass from thy house! but rage all the days of thy
life, afflicting all thy generation, till thy kingdom shall be
translated to another, whose manner and language the people under
thee knoweth not. Nor shall thy sin be done away till after long
chastisement, nor the sin of thy mother, nor the sin of those men
who assisted in thy wicked council."
All which came to pass as predicted by the saint; for after being
worsted and put to flight by Sueno King of the Danes, and his son
Canute, and at last closely besieged in London, he died miserably
A.D. 1017, after he had reigned thirty-six years in great
difficulties.
There is besides in the middle of the church a tomb made of brass,
of some Bishop of London, named William, who was in favour with
Edward, King of England, and afterwards made counsellor to King
William. He was bishop sixteen years, and died A.D. 1077. Near
this is the following inscription:
Virtue survives the funeral.
To the memory of
Thomas Linacre, an eminent physician, John Caius placed
this monument.
On the lower part of it is this inscription in gold letters:
Thomas Linacre, physician to King Henry VIII., a man learned in the
Greek and Latin languages, and particularly skilful in physick, by
which he restored many from a state of languishment and despair to
life. He translated with extraordinary eloquence many of Galen's
works into Latin; and published, a little before his death, at the
request of his friends, a very valuable book on the correct
structure of the Latin tongue. He founded in perpetuity in favour
of students in physick, two public lectures at Oxford, and one at
Cambridge. In this city he brought about, by his own industry, the
establishing of a College of Physicians, of which he was elected the
first president. He was a detester of all fraud and deceit, and
faithful in his friendships; equally dear to men of all ranks: he
went into orders a few years before his death, and quitted this life
full of years, and much lamented, A.D. 1524, on the 29th of October.
There are many tombs in this church, but without any inscriptions.
It has a very fine organ, which, at evening prayer, accompanied with
other instruments, is delightful.
In the suburb to the west, joined to the city by a continual row of
palaces belonging to the chief nobility, of a mile in length, and
lying on the side next the Thames, is the small town of Westminster;
originally called Thorney, from its thorn bushes, but now
Westminster, from its aspect and its monastery. The church is
remarkable for the coronation and burial of the Kings of England.
Upon this spot is said formerly to have stood a temple of Apollo,
which was thrown down by an earthquake in the time of Antoninus
Pius; from the ruins of which Sebert, King of the East Saxons,
erected another to St. Peter: this was subverted by the Danes, and
again renewed by Bishop Dunstan, who gave it to a few monks.
Afterwards, King Edward the Confessor built it entirely new, with
the tenth of his whole revenue, to be the place of his own burial,
and a convent of Benedictine monks; and enriched it with estates
dispersed all over England.
In this church the following things are worthy of notice:
In the first choir, the tomb of Anne of Cleves, wife of Henry VIII.,
without any inscription.
On the opposite side are two stone sepulchres:
(1) Edward, Earl of Lancaster, brother of Edward I.; (2) Ademar of
Valence, Earl of Pembroke, son of Ademar of Valence. Joining to
these is (3) that of Aveline, Countess of Lancaster.
In the second choir is the chair on which the kings are seated when
they are crowned; in it is enclosed a stone, said to be that on
which the patriarch Jacob slept when he dreamed he saw a ladder
reaching quite up into heaven. Some Latin verses are written upon a
tablet hanging near it; the sense of which is:
That if any faith is to be given to ancient chronicles, a stone of
great note is enclosed in this chair, being the same on which the
patriarch Jacob reposed when he beheld the miraculous descent of
angels. Edward I., the Mars and Hector of England, having conquered
Scotland, brought it from thence.
The tomb of Richard II. and his wife, of brass, gilt, and these
verses written round it:
Perfect and prudent, Richard, by right the Second,
Vanquished by Fortune, lies here now graven in stone,
True of his word, and thereto well renound:
Seemly in person, and like to Homer as one
In worldly prudence, and ever the Church in one
Upheld and favoured, casting the proud to ground,
And all that would his royal state confound.
Without the tomb is this inscription:
Here lies King Richard, who perished by a cruel death,
in the year 1369.
To have been happy is additional misery.
Near him is the monument of his queen, daughter of the Emperor
Wenceslaus.
On the left hand is the tomb of Edward I., with this inscription:
Here lies Edward I., who humbled the Scots. A.D. 1308.
Be true to your engagements.
He reigned forty-six years.
The tomb of Edward III., of copper, gilt, with this epitaph:
Of English kings here lieth the beauteous flower
Of all before past, and myrror to them shall sue:
A merciful king, of peace conservator,
The third Edward, &c.
Besides the tomb are these words:
Edward III., whose fame has reached to heaven. A.D. 1377,
Fight for your country.
Here is shown his sword, eight feet in length, which they say he
used in the conquest of France.
His queen's epitaph:
Here lies Queen Philippa, wife of Edward III. Learn to live. A.D.
1369.
At a little distance, the tomb of Henry V., with this legend:
Henry, the scourge of France, lies in this tomb. Virtue subdues all
things. A.D. 1422.
Near this lies the coffin of Catherine, unburied, and to be opened
by anyone that pleases. On the outside is this inscription:
Fair Catherine is at length united to her lord. A.D. 1437.
Shun idleness.
The tomb of Henry III., of brass, gilt, with this epitaph:
Henry III., the founder of this cathedral. A.D. 1273. War is
delightful to the unexperienced.
It was this Henry who, one hundred and sixty years after Edward the
Confessor had built this church, took it down, and raised an entire
new one of beautiful architecture, supported by rows of marble
columns, and its roof covered with sheets of lead, a work of fifty
years before its completion. It has been much enlarged at the west
end by the abbots. After the expulsion of the monks, it experienced
many changes; first it had a dean and prebendaries; then a bishop,
who, having squandered the revenues, resigned it again to a dean.
In a little time, the monks with their abbot were reinstated by
Queen Mary; but, they being soon ejected again by authority of
parliament, it was converted into a cathedral church--nay, into a
seminary for the Church--by Queen Elizabeth, who instituted there
twelve prebendaries, an equal number of invalid soldiers, and forty
scholars; who at a proper time are elected into the universities,
and are thence transplanted into the Church and State.
Next to be seen is the tomb of Eleanor, daughter of Alphonso King of
Spain, and wife of Edward I., with this inscription:
This Eleanor was consort of Edward I.
A.D. 1298. Learn to die.
The tomb of Elizabeth, daughter of Henry VII.
In the middle of this chapel is the shrine of St. Edward, the last
King of the Saxons. It is composed of marble in mosaic: round it
runs this inscription in letters of gold:
The venerable king, St. Edward the Confessor,
A heroe adorned with every virtue.
He died on the 5th of January, 1065,
And mounted into Heaven.
Lift up your hearts.
The third choir, of surprising splendour and elegance, was added to
the east end by Henry VII. for a burying-place for himself and his
posterity. Here is to be seen his magnificent tomb, wrought of
brass and marble, with this epitaph:
Here lies Henry VII. of that name, formerly King of England, son of
Edmund, Earl of Richmond, who, ascending the throne on the twenty-
second day of August, was crowned on the thirtieth of October
following at Westminster, in the year of our Lord 1485. He died on
the twenty-first of April, in the fifty-third year of his age, after
a reign of twenty-two years and eight months wanting a day.
This monument is enclosed with rails of brass, with a long epitaph
in Latin verse.
Under the same tomb lies buried Edward VI., King of England, son of
Henry VIII. by Jane Seymour. He succeeded to his father when he was
but nine years old, and died A.T. 1553, on the 6th of July, in the
sixteenth year of his age, and of his reign the seventh, not without
suspicion of poison.
Mary was proclaimed queen by the people on the 19th of July, and
died in November, 1558, and is buried in some corner of the same
choir, without any inscription.
Queen Elizabeth.
Here lies Queen Elizabeth, daughter of Edward IV., sister of King
Edward V., wife of Henry VII., and the glorious mother of Henry
VIII. She died in the Tower of London, on the eleventh of February,
A.D. 1502, in the thirty-seventh year of her age.
Between the second and third choirs in the side-chapels, are the
tombs of Sebert, King of the East Saxons, who built this church with
stone: and
Of Margaret of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., grandmother of Henry
VIII.; she gave this monastery to the monks of Winbourne, {3} who
preached and taught grammar all England over, and appointed salaries
to two professors of divinity, one at Oxford, another at Cambridge,
where she founded two colleges to Christ and to John His disciple.
She died A.D. 1463, on the third of the calends of July.
And of Margaret, Countess of Lenox, grandmother of James VI., King
of Scotland.
William of Valance, half-brother of Henry III.
The Earl of Cornwall, brother of Edward III.
Upon another tomb is an honorary inscription for Frances, Duchess of
Suffolk. The sense of it is,
That titles, royal birth, riches, or a large family, are of no
avail:
That all are transitory; virtue alone resisting the funeral pile.
That this lady was first married to a duke, then to Stoke, a
gentleman;
And lastly, by the grave espoused to CHRIST.
The next is the tomb of Lord Russell, son of the Earl of Bedford,
whose lady composed the following Greek and Latin verses, and had
them engraved on the marble:-
How was I startled at the cruel feast,
By death's rude hands in horrid manner drest;
Such grief as sure no hapless woman knew,
When thy pale image lay before my view.
Thy father's heir in beauteous form arrayed
Like flowers in spring, and fair, like them to fade;
Leaving behind unhappy wretched me,
And all thy little orphan-progeny:
Alike the beauteous face, the comely air,
The tongue persuasive, and the actions fair,
Decay: so learning too in time shall waste:
But faith, chaste lovely faith, shall ever last.
The once bright glory of his house, the pride
Of all his country, dusty ruins hide:
Mourn, hapless orphans; mourn, once happy wife;
For when he died, died all the joys of life.
Pious and just, amidst a large estate,
He got at once the name of good and great.
He made no flatt'ring parasite his guest,
But asked the good companions to the feast.
Anne, Countess of Oxford, daughter of William Cecil, Baron Burleigh,
and Lord Treasurer.
Philippa, daughter and co-heiress of John, Lord Mohun of Dunster,
wife of Edward, Duke of York.
Frances, Countess of Sussex, of the ancient family of Sidney.
Thomas Bromley, Chancellor to Queen Elizabeth.
The Earl of Bridgewater, {4} Lord Dawbney, Lord Chamberlain to Henry
VII., and his lady.
And thus much for Westminster.
There are many other churches in this city, but none so remarkable
for the tombs of persons of distinction.
Near to this church is Westminster Hall, where, besides the Sessions
of Parliament, which are often held there, are the Courts of
Justice; and at stated times are heard their trials in law, or
concerning the king's patrimony, or in chancery, which moderates the
severity of the common law by equity. Till the time of Henry I. the
Prime Court of Justice was movable, and followed the King's Court,
but he enacted by the Magna Charta that the common pleas should no
longer attend his Court, but be held at some determined place. The
present hall was built by King Richard II. in the place of an
ancient one which he caused to be taken down. He made it part of
his habitation (for at that time the Kings of England determined
causes in their own proper person, and from the days of Edward the
Confessor had their palace adjoining), till, above sixty years
since, upon its being burnt, Henry VIII. removed the royal
residence to Whitehall, situated in the neighbourhood, which a
little before was the house of Cardinal Wolsey. This palace is
truly royal, enclosed on one side by the Thames, on the other by a
park, which connects it with St. James's, another royal palace.
In the chamber where the Parliament is usually held, the seats and
wainscot are made of wood, the growth of Ireland; said to have that
occult quality, that all poisonous animals are driven away by it;
and it is affirmed for certain, that in Ireland there are neither
serpents, toads, nor any other venomous creature to be found.
Near this place are seen an immense number of swans, who wander up
and down the river for some miles, in great security; nobody daring
to molest, much less kill any of them, under penalty of a
considerable fine.
In Whitehall are the following things worthy of observation:-
I. The Royal Library, well stored with Greek, Latin, Italian and
French books; amongst the rest, a little one in French upon
parchment, in the handwriting of the present reigning Queen
Elizabeth, thus inscribed:-
To the most high, puissant, and redoubted prince, Henry VIII. of the
name, King of England, France and Ireland, Defender of the Faith;
Elizabeth, his most humble daughter. Health and obedience.
All these books are bound in velvet in different colours, though
chiefly red, with clasps of gold and silver; some have pearls and
precious stones set in their bindings.
II. Two little silver cabinets of exquisite work, in which the
Queen keeps her paper, and which she uses for writing boxes.
III. The Queen's bed, ingeniously composed of woods of different
colours, with quilts of silk, velvet, gold, silver, and embroidery.
IV. A little chest ornamented all over with pearls, in which the
Queen keeps her bracelets, ear-rings, and other things of
extraordinary value.
V. Christ's Passion, in painted glass.
VI. Portraits: among which are, Queen Elizabeth, at sixteen years
old; Henry, Richard, Edward, Kings of England; Rosamond; Lucrece, a
Grecian bride, in her nuptial habit; the genealogy of the Kings of
England; a picture of King Edward VI., representing at first sight
something quite deformed, till by looking through a small hole in
the cover which is put over it, you see it in its true proportions;
Charles V., Emperor; Charles Emanuel, Duke of Savoy, and Catherine
of Spain, his wife; Ferdinand, Duke of Florence, with his daughters;
one of Philip, King of Spain, when he came into England and married
Mary; Henry VII., Henry VIII., and his mother; besides many more of
illustrious men and women; and a picture of the Siege of Malta.
VII. A small hermitage, half hid in a rock, finely carved in wood.
VIII. Variety of emblems on paper, cut in the shape of shields,
with mottoes, used by the mobility at tilts and tournaments, hung up
here for a memorial.
IX. Different instruments of music, upon one of which two persons
may perform at the same time.
X. A piece of clock-work, an Ethiop riding upon a rhinoceros, with
four attendants, who all make their obeisance when it strikes the
hour; these are all put into motion by winding up the machine.
At the entrance into the park from Whitehall is this inscription:-
The fisherman who has been wounded, learns, though late, to beware;
But the unfortunate Actaeon always presses on.
The chaste virgin naturally pitied:
But the powerful goddess revenged the wrong.
Let Actaeon fall a prey to his dogs,
An example to youth,
A disgrace to those that belong to him!
May Diana live the care of Heaven;
The delight of mortals;
The security of those that belong to her! {5}
In this park is great plenty of deer.
In a garden joining to this palace there is a JET D'EAU, with a sun-
dial, which while strangers are looking at, a quantity of water,
forced by a wheel which the gardener turns at a distance, through a
number of little pipes, plentifully sprinkles those that are
standing round.
Guildhall, a fine structure built by Thomas Knowles. Here are to be
seen the statues of two giants, said to have assisted the English
when the Romans made war upon them: Corinius of Britain, and
Gogmagog of Albion. Beneath upon a table the titles of Charles V.,
Emperor, are written in letters of gold.
The government of London is this: the city is divided into twenty-
five regions or wards; the Council is composed of twenty-four
aldermen, one of whom presides over every ward. And whereas of old
the chief magistrate was a portreeve, I.E., governor of the city,
Richard I. appointed two bailiffs; instead of which King John gave a
power by grant of choosing annually a mayor from any of the twelve
principal companies, and to name two sheriffs, one of whom to be
called the king's, the other the city's. It is scarce credible how
this city increased, both in public and private buildings, upon
establishing this form of government. VIDE Camden's "Britannia,"
Middlesex.
It is worthy of observation, that every year, upon St. Bartholomew's
Day, when the fair is held, it is usual for the mayor, attended by
the twelve principal aldermen, to walk in a neighbouring field,
dressed in his scarlet gown, and about his neck a golden chain, to
which is hung a golden fleece, {6} and besides, that particular
ornament {7} which distinguishes the most noble order of the garter.
During the year of his magistracy, he is obliged to live so
magnificently, that foreigner or native, without any expense, is
free, if he can find a chair empty, to dine at his table, where
there is always the greatest plenty. When the mayor goes out of the
precincts of the city, a sceptre, a sword, and a cap, are borne
before him, and he is followed by the principal aldermen in scarlet
gowns, with gold chains; himself and they on horseback. Upon their
arrival at a place appointed for that purpose, where a tent is
pitched, the mob begin to wrestle before them, two at a time; the
conquerors receive rewards from the magistrates. After this is
over, a parcel of live rabbits are turned loose among the crowd,
which are pursued by a number of boys, who endeavour to catch them,
with all the noise they can make. While we were at this show, one
of our company, Tobias Salander, doctor of physic, had his pocket
picked of his purse, with nine crowns du soleil, which, without
doubt, was so cleverly taken from him by an Englishman who always
kept very close to him, that the doctor did not in the least
perceive it.
The Castle or Tower of London, called Bringwin, and Tourgwin, in
Welsh, from its whiteness, is encompassed by a very deep and broad
ditch, as well as a double wall very high. In the middle of the
whole is that very ancient and very strong tower, enclosed with four
others, which, in the opinion of some, was built by Julius Caesar.
Upon entering the tower, we were obliged to quit our swords at the
gate and deliver them to the guard. When we were introduced, we
were shown above a hundred pieces of arras belonging to the Crown,
made of gold, silver, and silk; several saddles covered with velvet
of different colours; an immense quantity of bed-furniture, such as
canopies, and the like, some of them most richly ornamented with
pearl; some royal dresses, so extremely magnificent as to raise any
one's admiration at the sums they must have cost. We were next led
into the Armoury, in which are these particularities:- Spears, out
of which you may shoot; shields, that will give fire four times; a
great many rich halberds, commonly called partisans, with which the
guard defend the royal person in battle; some lances, covered with
red and green velvet, and the body-armour of Henry VIII.; many and
very beautiful arms, as well for men as for horses in horse-fights;
the lance of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, three spans thick;
two pieces of cannon, the one fires three, the other seven balls at
a time; two others made of wood, which the English has at the siege
of Boulogne, in France. And by this stratagem, without which they
could not have succeeded, they struck a terror into the inhabitants,
as at the appearance of artillery, and the town was surrendered upon
articles; nineteen cannon of a thicker make than ordinary, and in a
room apart; thirty-six of a smaller; other cannon for chain-shot;
and balls proper to bring down masts of ships. Cross-bows, bows and
arrows, of which to this day the English make great use in their
exercises; but who can relate all that is to be seen here? Eight or
nine men employed by the year are scarce sufficient to keep all the
arms bright.
The Mint for coining money is in the Tower.
N.B.--It is to be noted, that when any of the nobility are sent
hither, on the charge of high crimes, punishable with death, such as
treason, &c., they seldom or never recover their liberty. Here was
beheaded Anne Boleyn, wife of King Henry VIII., and lies buried in
the chapel, but without any inscription; and Queen Elizabeth was
kept prisoner here by her sister, Queen Mary, at whose death she was
enlarged, and by right called to the throne.
On coming out of the Tower, we were led to a small house close by,
where are kept variety of creatures, viz.--three lionesses; one lion
of great size, called Edward VI. from his having been born in that
reign: a tiger; a lynx; a wolf excessively old--this is a very
scarce animal in England, so that their sheep and cattle stray about
in great numbers, free from any danger, though without anybody to
keep them; there is, besides, a porcupine, and an eagle. All these
creatures are kept in a remote place, fitted up for the purpose with
wooden lattices, at the Queen's expense.
Near to this Tower is a large open space; on the highest part of it
is erected a wooden scaffold, for the execution of noble criminals;
upon which, they say, three princes of England, the last of their
families, have been beheaded for high treason; on the bank of the
Thames close by are a great many cannon, such chiefly as are used at
sea.
The next thing worthy of note is the Royal Exchange, so named by
Queen Elizabeth, built by Sir Thomas Gresham, citizen, for public
ornament and the convenience of merchants. It has a great effect,
whether you consider the stateliness of the building, the assemblage
of different nations, or the quantities of merchandise. I shall say
nothing of the hall belonging to the Hans Society; or of the
conveyance of water to all parts of the town by subterraneous pipes,
nor the beautiful conduits and cisterns for the reception of it; nor
of the raising of water out of the Thames by a wheel, invented a few
years since by a German.
Bridewell, at present the House of Correction; it was built in six
weeks for the reception of the Emperor Charles V.
A Hall built by a cobbler and bestowed on the city, where are
exposed to sale, three times in a week, corn, wool, cloth, fruits,
and the like.
Without the city are some theatres, where English actors represent
almost every day tragedies and comedies to a very numerous
audiences; these are concluded with excellent music, variety of
dances, and the excessive applause of those that are present.
Not far from one of these theatres, which are all built of wood,
lies the royal barge, close to the river. It has two splendid
cabins, beautifully ornamented with glass windows, painting, and
gilding; it is kept upon dry ground, and sheltered from the weather.
There is still another place, built in the form of a theatre, which
serves for the baiting of bulls and bears; they are fastened behind,
and then worried by great English bull-dogs, but not without great
risk to the dogs, from the horns of the one and the teeth of the
other; and it sometimes happens that they are killed upon the spot;
fresh ones are immediately supplied in the places of those that are
wounded or tired. To this entertainment there often follows that of
whipping a blinded bear, which is performed by five or six men,
standing circularly with whips, which they exercise upon him without
any mercy, as he cannot escape from them because of his chain; he
defends himself with all his force and skill, throwing down all who
come within his reach and are not active enough to get out of it,
and tearing the whips out of their hands and breaking them. At
these spectacles, and everywhere else, the English are constantly
smoking tobacco; and in this manner--they have pipes on purpose made
of clay, into the farther end of which they put the herb, so dry
that it may be rubbed into powder, and putting fire to it, they draw
the smoke into their mouths, which they puff out again through their
nostrils like funnels, along with it plenty of phlegm and defluxion
from the head. In these theatres, fruits, such as apples, pears,
and nuts, according to the season, are carried about to be sold, as
well as ale and wine.
There are fifteen colleges within and without the city, nobly built,
with beautiful gardens adjoining. Of these the three principal
are:-
I. The Temple, inhabited formerly by the Knights Templars; it seems
to have taken its name from the old temple, or church, which has a
round tower added to it, under which lied buried those Kings of
Denmark that reigned in England.
II. Gray's Inn. And,
III. Lincoln's Inn.
In these colleges numbers of young nobility, gentry, and others, are
educated, and chiefly in the study of physic, for very few apply
themselves to that of the law; they are allowed a very good table,
and silver cups to drink out of. Once a person of distinction, who
could not help being surprised at the great number of cups, said,
"He should have thought it more suitable to the life of students, if
they had used rather glass, or earthenware, than silver." The
college answered, "They were ready to make him a present of all
their plate, provided he would undertake to supply them with all the
glass and earthenware they should have a demand for; since it was
very likely he would find the expense, from constant breaking,
exceed the value of the silver."
The streets in this city are very handsome and clean; but that which
is named from the goldsmiths who inhabit it, surpasses all the rest;
there is in it a gilt tower, with a fountain that plays. Near it,
on the farther side, is a handsome house built by a goldsmith and
presented by him to the city. There are besides to be seen in this
street, as in all others where there are goldsmiths' shops, all
sorts of gold and silver vessels exposed to sale, as well as ancient
and modern medals, in such quantities as must surprise a man the
first time he sees and considers them.
Fitz-Stephen, a writer of English history, reckoned in his time in
London one hundred and twenty-seven parish churches, and thirteen
belonging to convents; he mentions, besides, that upon a review
there of men able to bear arms, the people brought into the field
under their colours forty thousand foot and twenty thousand horse.
VIDE Camden's "Britannia," Middlesex.
The best oysters are sold here in great quantities.
Everybody knows that English cloth is much approved of for the
goodness of the materials, and imported into all the kingdoms and
provinces of Europe.
We were shown, at the house of Leonard Smith, a tailor, a most
perfect looking-glass, ornamented with gold, pearl, silver, and
velvet, so richly as to be estimated at five hundred ecus du soleil.
We saw at the same place the hippocamp and eagle stone, both very
curious and rare.
And thus much of London.
Upon taking the air down the river, the first thing that struck us
was the ship of that noble pirate, Sir Francis Drake, in which he is
said to have surrounded this globe of earth. On the left hand lies
Ratcliffe, a considerable suburb: on the opposite shore is fixed a
long pole with ram's-horns upon it, the intention of which was
vulgarly said to be a reflection upon wilful and contented cuckolds.
We arrived next at the royal palace of Greenwich, reported to have
been originally built by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and to have
received very magnificent additions from Henry VII. It was here
Elizabeth, the present Queen, was born, and her she generally
resides, particularly in summer, for the delightfulness of its
situation. We were admitted, by an order Mr. Rogers had procured
from the Lord Chamberlain, into the presence chamber, hung with rich
tapestry, and the floor, after the English fashion, strewed with
hay, {8} through which the Queen commonly passes on her way to
chapel. At the door stood a gentleman dressed in velvet, with a
gold chain, whose office was to introduce to the Queen any person of
distinction that came to wait on her; it was Sunday, when there is
usually the greatest attendance of nobility. In the same hall were
the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop of London, a great number
of Councillors of State, officers of the Crown, and gentlemen, who
waited the Queen's coming out; which she did from her own apartment
when it was time to go to prayers, attended in the following
manner:-
First went gentlemen, barons, earls, Knights of the Garter, all
richly dressed and bareheaded; next came the Chancellor, bearing the
seals in a red silk purse, between two, one of whom carried the
Royal sceptre, the other the sword of state, in a red scabbard,
studded with golden FLEURS DE LIS, the point upwards: next came the
Queen, in the sixty-fifth year of her age, as we were told, very
majestic; her face oblong, fair, but wrinkled; her eyes small, yet
black and pleasant; her nose a little hooked; her lips narrow, and
her teeth black (a defect the English seem subject to, from their
too great use of sugar); she had in her ears two pearls, with very
rich drops; she wore false hair, and that red; upon her head she had
a small crown, reported to be made of some of the gold of the
celebrated Lunebourg table; her bosom was uncovered, as all the
English ladies have it till they marry; and she had on a necklace of
exceeding fine jewels; her hands were small, her fingers long, and
her stature neither tall nor low; her air was stately, her manner of
speaking mild and obliging. That day she was dressed in white silk,
bordered with pearls of the size of beans, and over it a mantle of
black silk, shot with silver threads; her train was very long, the
end of it borne by a marchioness; instead of a chain, she had an
oblong collar of gold and jewels. As she went along in all this
state and magnificence, she spoke very graciously, first to one,
then to another, whether foreign Ministers, or those who attended
for different reasons, in English, French, and Italian; for, besides
being well skilled in Greek, Latin, and the languages I have
mentioned, she is mistress of Spanish, Scotch, and Dutch. Whoever
speaks to her, it is kneeling; now and then she raises some with her
hand. While we were there, W. Slawata, a Bohemian baron, had
letters to present to her; and she, after pulling off her glove,
gave him her right hand to kiss, sparkling with rings and jewels, a
mark of particular favour. Wherever she turned her face, as she was
going along, everybody fell down on their knees. {9} The ladies of
the court followed next to her, very handsome and well-shaped, and
for the most part dressed in white. She was guarded on each side by
the gentlemen pensioners, fifty in number, with gilt battle-axes.
In the ante-chapel, next the hall where we were, petitions were
presented to her, and she received them most graciously, which
occasioned the acclamation of "Long Live Queen Elizabeth!" She
answered it with "I thank you, my good people." In the chapel was
excellent music; as soon as it and the service were over, which
scarce exceeded half an hour, the Queen returned in the same state
and order, and prepared to go to dinner. But while she was still at
prayers, we saw her table set out with the following solemnity:-
A gentleman entered the room bearing a rod, and along with him
another who had a table-cloth which, after they had both kneeled
three times with the utmost veneration, he spread upon the table,
and, after kneeling again, they both retired. Then came two others,
one with the rod again, the other with a salt-cellar, a plate, and
bread; when they had kneeled as the others had done, and placed what
was brought upon the table, they too retired with the same
ceremonies performed by the first. At last came an unmarried lady
(we were told she was a countess), and along with her a married one,
bearing a tasting-knife; the former was dressed in white silk, who,
when she had prostrated herself three times in the most graceful
manner, approached the table and rubbed the plates with bread and
salt with as much awe as if the Queen had been present. When they
had waited there a little while, the yeomen of the guards entered,
bareheaded, clothed in scarlet, with a golden rose upon their backs,
bringing in at each turn a course of twenty-four dishes, served in
plate, most of it gilt; these dishes were received by a gentleman in
the same order they were brought, and placed upon the table, while
the lady taster gave to each of the guard a mouthful to eat of the
particular dish he had brought, for fear of any poison. During the
time that this guard, which consists of the tallest and stoutest men
that can be found in all England, being carefully selected for this
service, were bringing dinner, twelve trumpets and two kettledrums
made the hall ring for half an hour together. At the end of all
this ceremonial, a number of unmarried ladies appeared, who, with
particular solemnity, lifted the meat off the table, and conveyed it
into the Queen's inner and more private chamber, where, after she
had chosen for herself, the rest goes to the ladies of the Court.
The Queen dines and sups alone with very few attendants, and it is
very seldom that anybody, foreigner or native, is admitted at that
time, and then only at the intercession of somebody in power.
Near this palace is the Queen's park, stocked with deer. Such parks
are common throughout England, belonging to those that are
distinguished either for their rank or riches. In the middle of
this is an old square tower, called Mirefleur, supposed to be that
mentioned in the romance of "Amadis de Gaul;" and joining to it a
plain, where knights and other gentlemen use to meet, at set times
and holidays, to exercise on horseback.
We left London in a coach, in order to see the remarkable places in
its neighbourhood.
The first was Theobalds, belonging to Lord Burleigh, the Treasurer.
In the gallery was painted the genealogy of the Kings of England;
from this place one goes into the garden, encompassed with a ditch
full of water, large enough for one to have the pleasure of going in
a boat and rowing between the shrubs; here are great variety of
trees and plants, labyrinths made with a great deal of labour, a JET
D'EAU, with its basin of white marble, and columns and pyramids of
wood and other materials up and down the garden. After seeing
these, we were led by the gardener into the summer-house, in the
lower part of which, built semicircularly, are the twelve Roman
emperors in white marble, and a table of touchstone; the upper part
of it is set round with cisterns of lead, into which the water is
conveyed through pipes, so that fish may be kept in them, and in
summer-time they are very convenient for bathing. In another room
for entertainment, very near this, and joined to it by a little
bridge, was an oval table of red marble. We were not admitted to
see the apartments of this palace, there being nobody to show it, as
the family was in town, attending the funeral of their lord. {10}
Hoddesdon, a village.
Ware, a market town.
Puckeridge, a village; this was the first place where we observed
that the beds at inns were made by the waiters.
Camboritum, Cantabrigium and Cantabrigia, now called Cambridge, a
celebrated town, so named from the river Cam, which after washing
the western side, playing through islands, turns to the east, and
divides the town into two parts, which are joined by a bridge,
whence its modern name--formerly it had the Saxon one of
Grantbridge. Beyond this bridge is an ancient and large castle,
said to be built by the Danes: on this side, where far the greater
part of the town stands, all is splendid; the streets fine, the
churches numerous, and those seats of the Muses, the colleges, most
beautiful; in these a great number of learned men are supported, and
the studies of all polite sciences and languages flourish.
I think proper to mention some few things about the foundation of
this University and its colleges. Cantaber, a Spaniard, is thought
to have first instituted this academy 375 years before Christ, and
Sebert, King of the East Angles, to have restored it A.D. 630. It
was afterwards subverted in the confusion under the Danes, and lay
long neglected, till upon the Norman Conquest everything began to
brighten up again: from that time inns and halls for the convenient
lodging of students began to be built, but without any revenues
annexed to them.
The first college, called Peter House, was built and endowed by Hugh
Balsam, Bishop of Ely, A.D. 1280; and, in imitation of him, Richard
Badew, with the assistance of Elizabeth Burke, Countess of Clare and
Ulster, founded Clare Hall in 1326; Mary de St. Paul, Countess of
Pembroke, Pembroke Hall in 1343; the Monks of Corpus Christi, the
college of the same name, though it has besides that of Bennet; John
Craudene, Trinity Hall, 1354; Edmond Gonville, in 1348, and John
Caius, a physician in our times, Gonville and Caius College; King
Henry VI., King's College, in 1441, adding to it a chapel that may
justly claim a place among the most beautiful buildings in the
world. On its right side is a fine library, where we saw the "Book
of Psalms" in manuscript, upon parchment four spans in length and
three broad, taken from the Spaniards at the siege of Cadiz, and
thence brought into England with other rich spoils. Margaret of
Anjou, his wife, founded Queen's College, 1448, at the same time
that John Alcock, Bishop of Ely, built Jesus College; Robert
Woodlarke, Catherine Hall; Margaret of Richmond, mother of King
Henry VII., Christ's and St. John's Colleges, about 1506; Thomas
Audley, Chancellor of England, Magdalen College, much increased
since both in buildings and revenue by Christopher Wray, Lord Chief
Justice; and the most potent King Henry VIII. erected Trinity
College for religion and polite letters--in its chapel is the tomb
of Dr. Whitacre, with an inscription in gold letters upon marble;
Emanuel College, built in our own times by the most honourable and
prudent Sir Walter Mildmay, one of Her Majesty's Privy Council; and
lastly, Sidney College, now first building by the executors of the
Lady Frances Sidney, {11} Countess of Sussex.
We must note here that there is certain sect in England called
Puritans; these, according to the doctrine of the Church of Geneva,
reject all ceremonies anciently held, and admit of neither organs
nor tombs in their places of worship, and entirely abhor all
difference in rank among Churchmen, such as bishops, deans, &c.;
they were first named Puritans by the Jesuit Sandys. They do not
live separate, but mix with those of the Church of England in the
colleges.
Potton, a village.
Ampthill, a town; here we saw immense numbers of rabbits, which are
reckoned as good as hares, and are very well tasted.
We passed through the towns of Woburn, Leighton, Aylesbury, and
Wheatley.
Oxonium, Oxford, the famed Athens of England; that glorious seminary
of learning and wisdom, whence religion, politeness, and letters,
are abundantly dispersed into all parts of the kingdom. The town is
remarkably fine, whether you consider the elegance of its private
buildings, the magnificence of its public ones, or the beauty and
wholesomeness of its situation, which is on a plain, encompassed in
such a manner with hills, shaded with wood, as to be sheltered on
the one hand from the sickly south, and on the other from the
blustering west, but open to the east, that blows serene weather,
and to the north, the preventer of corruption, from which, in the
opinion of some, it formerly obtained the appellation of Bellositum.
This town is watered by two rivers, the Cherwell and the Isis,
vulgarly called the Ouse; and though these streams join in the same
channel, yet the Isis runs more entire and with more rapidity
towards the south, retaining its name till it meets the Thame, which
it seems long to have sought, at Wallingford; thence, called by the
compound name of Thames, it flows the prince of all British rivers,
of whom we may justly say, as the ancients did of the Euphrates,
that it both sows and waters England.
The colleges in this famous University are as follows:-
In the reign of Henry III., Walter Merton, Bishop of Rochester,
removed the college he had founded in Surrey, 1274, to Oxford,
enriched it, and named it Merton College; and soon after, William,
Archdeacon of Durham, restored, with additions, that building of
Alfred's now called University College; in the reign of Edward I.,
John Baliol, King of Scotland, or, as some will have it, his
parents, founded Baliol College; in the reign of Edward II., Walter
Stapleton, Bishop of Exeter, founded Exeter College and Hart Hall;
and, in imitation of him, the King, King's College, commonly called
Oriel, and St. Mary's Hall; next, Philippa, wife of Edward III.,
built Queen's College; and Simon Islip, Archbishop of Canterbury,
Canterbury College; William Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, raised
that magnificent structure called New College; Magdalen College was
built by William Wainflete, Bishop of Winchester, a noble edifice,
finely situated and delightful for its walks; at the same time,
Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, that great encourager of learning,
built the Divinity School very splendidly, and over it a library, to
which he gave an hundred and twenty-nine very choice books,
purchased at a great price from Italy, but the public has long since
been robbed of the use of them by the avarice of particulars:
Lincoln College; All Souls' College; St. Bernard's College; Brazen-
Nose College, founded by William Smith, Bishop of Lincoln, in the
reign of Henry VII.; its revenues were augmented by Alexander Nowel,
Dean of St. Paul's, London; upon the gate of this college is fixed a
nose of brass; Corpus Christi College, built by Richard Fox, Bishop
of Winchester--under his picture in the College chapel are lines
importing that it is the exact representation of his person and
dress.
Christ's Church, the largest and most elegant of them all, was begun
on the ground of St. Frideswide's Monastery, by Thomas Wolsey,
Cardinal of York, to which Henry VIII. joined Canterbury College,
settled great revenues upon it, and named it Christ's Church; the
same great prince, out of his own treasury, to the dignity of the
town and ornament of the University, made the one a bishoprie, and
instituted professorships in the other.
Jesus College, built by Hugh Price, Doctor of Laws.
That fine edifice, the Public Schools, was entirely raised by Queen
Mary, and adorned with various inscriptions.
Thus far of the colleges and halls, which for the beauty of their
buildings, their rich endowments, and copious libraries, excel all
the academies in the Christian world. We shall add a little of the
academies themselves, and those that inhabit them.
These students lead a life almost monastic; for as the monks had
nothing in the world to do but when they had said their prayers at
stated hours to employ themselves in instructive studies, no more
have these. They are divided into three tables: the first is
called the Fellows' table, to which are admitted earls, barons,
gentlemen, doctors, and Masters of Arts, but very few of the latter-
-this is more plentifully and expensively served than the others;
the second is for Masters of Arts, Bachelors, some gentlemen, and
eminent citizens; the third for people of low condition. While the
rest are at dinner or supper in a great hall, where they are all
assembled, one of the students reads aloud the Bible, which is
placed on a desk in the middle of the hall, and this office every
one of them takes upon himself in his turn. As soon as grace is
said after each meal, every one is at liberty either to retire to
his own chambers or to walk in the College garden, there being none
that has not a delightful one. Their habit is almost the same as
that of the Jesuits, their gowns reaching down to their ankles,
sometimes lined with fur; they wear square caps. The doctors,
Masters of Arts, and professors, have another kind of gown that
distinguishes them. Every student of any considerable standing has
a key to the College library, for no college is without one.
In an out-part of the town are the remains of a pretty large
fortification, but quite in ruins. We were entertained at supper
with an excellent concert, composed of a variety of instruments.
The next day we went as far as the Royal Palace of Woodstock, where
King Ethelred formerly held a Parliament, and enacted certain laws.
This palace, abounding in magnificence, was built by Henry I., to
which he joined a very large park, enclosed with a wall; according
to John Rosse, the first park in England. In this very palace the
present reigning Queen Elizabeth, before she was confined to the
Tower, was kept prisoner by her sister Mary. While she was detained
here, in the utmost peril of her life, she wrote with a piece of
charcoal the following verse, composed by herself, upon a window
shutter:-
"O Fortune! how thy restless wavering state
Hath fraught with cares my troubled wit!
Witness this present prison whither fate
Hath borne me, and the joys I quit.
Thou causedest the guilty to be loosed
From bands wherewith are innocents enclosed;
Causing the guiltless to be strait reserved,
And freeing those that death had well deserved:
But by her envy can be nothing wrought,
So God send to my foes all they have thought.
A.D., M.D.L.V."
"Elizabeth, Prisoner.
Not far from this palace are to be seen, near a spring of the
brightest water, the ruins of the habitation of Rosamond Clifford,
whose exquisite beauty so entirely captivated the heart of King
Henry II. that he lost the thought of all other women; she is said
to have been poisoned at last by the Queen. All that remains of her
tomb of stone, the letters of which are almost worn out, is the
following:-
" . . . Adorent,
Utque tibi detur requies Rosamunda precamur."
The rhyming epitaph following was probably the performance of some
monk:-
"Hic jacet in tumba Rosamundi non Rosamunda,
Non redolet sed olet, quae redolere solet."
Returning from hence to Oxford, after dinner we proceeded on our
journey, and passed through Ewhelme, a royal palace, in which some
alms-people are supported by an allowance from the Crown.
Nettlebed, a village.
We went through the little town of Henley; from hence the Chiltern
Hills bear north in a continued ridge, and divide the counties of
Oxford and Buckingham.
We passed Maidenhead.
Windsor, a royal castle, supposed to have been begun by King Arthur,
its buildings much increased by Edward III. The situation is
entirely worthy of being a royal residence, a more beautiful being
scarce to be found; for, from the brow of a gentle rising, it enjoys
the prospect of an even and green country; its front commands a
valley extended every way, and chequered with arable lands and
pasturage, clothed up and down with groves, and watered by that
gentlest of rivers, the Thames; behind rise several hills, but
neither steep nor very high, crowned with woods, and seeming
designed by Nature herself for the purpose of hunting.
The Kings of England, invited by the deliciousness of the place,
very often retire hither; and here was born the conqueror of France,
the glorious King Edward III., who built the castle new from the
ground, and thoroughly fortified it with trenches, and towers of
square stone, and, having soon after subdued in battle John, King of
France, and David, King of Scotland, he detained them both prisoners
here at the same time. This castle, besides being the Royal Palace,
and having some magnificent tombs of the Kings of England, is famous
for the ceremonies belonging to the Knights of the Garter. This
Order was instituted by Edward III., the same who triumphed so
illustriously over John, King of France. The Knights of the Garter
are strictly chosen for their military virtues, and antiquity of
family; they are bound by solemn oath and vow to mutual and
perpetual friendship among themselves, and to the not avoiding any
danger whatever, or even death itself, to support, by their joint
endeavours, the honour of the Society; they are styled Companions of
the Garter, from their wearing below the left knee a purple garter,
inscribed in letters of gold with "HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE," I.E.,
"Evil to him that evil thinks." This they wear upon the left leg,
in memory of one which, happening to untie, was let fall by a great
lady, passionately beloved by Edward, while she was dancing, and was
immediately snatched up by the King, who, to do honour to the lady,
not out of any trifling gallantry, but with a most serious and
honourable purpose, dedicated it to the legs of the most
distinguished nobility. The ceremonies of this Society are
celebrated every year at Windsor on St. George's Day, the tutelar
saint of the Order, the King presiding; and the custom is that the
Knights Companions should hang up their helmet and shield, with
their arms blazoned on it, in some conspicuous part of the church.
There are three principal and very large courts in Windsor Castle,
which give great pleasure to the beholders: the first is enclosed
with most elegant buildings of white stone, flat-roofed, and covered
with lead; here the Knights of the Garter are lodged; in the middle
is a detached house, remarkable for its high tower, which the
governor inhabits. In this is the public kitchen, well furnished
with proper utensils, besides a spacious dining-room, where all the
poor Knights eat at the same table, for into this Society of the
Garter, the King and Sovereign elects, at his own choice, certain
persons, who must be gentlemen of three descents, and such as, for
their age and the straitness of their fortunes, are fitter for
saying their prayers than for the service of war; to each of them is
assigned a pension of eighteen pounds per annum and clothes. The
chief institution of so magnificent a foundation is, that they
should say their daily prayers to God for the King's safety, and the
happy administration for the kingdom, to which purpose they attend
the service, meeting twice every day at chapel. The left side of
this court is ornamented by a most magnificent chapel of one hundred
and thirty-four paces in length, and sixteen in breadth; in this are
eighteen seats fitted up in the time of Edward III. for an equal
number of Knights: this venerable building is decorated with the
noble monuments of Edward IV., Henry VI., and VIII., and of his wife
Queen Jane. It receives from royal liberality the annual income of
two thousand pounds, and that still much increased by the
munificence of Edward III. and Henry VII. The greatest princes in
Christendom have taken it for the highest honour to be admitted into
the Order of the Garter; and since its first institution about
twenty kings, besides those of England, who are the sovereigns of
it, not to mention dukes and persons of the greatest figure, have
been of it. It consists of twenty-six Companions.
In the inward choir of the chapel are hung up sixteen coats-of-arms,
swords, and banners; among which are those of Charles V. and
Rodolphus II., Emperors; of Philip of Spain; Henry III. of France;
Frederic II. of Denmark, &c.; of Casimir, Count Palatine of the
Rhine; and other Christian princes who have been chosen into this
Order.
In the back choir, or additional chapel, are shown preparations made
by Cardinal Wolsey, who was afterwards capitally punished, {12} for
his own tomb; consisting of eight large brazen columns placed round
it, and nearer the tomb four others in the shape of candlesticks;
the tomb itself is of white and black marble; all which are
reserved, according to report, for the funeral of Queen Elizabeth;
the expenses already made for that purpose are estimated at upwards
of 60,000 pounds. In the same chapel is the surcoat {13} of Edward
III., and the tomb of Edward Fynes, Earl of Lincoln, Baron Clinton
and Say, Knight of the Most Noble Order of the Garter, and formerly
Lord High Admiral of England.
The second court of Windsor Castle stands upon higher ground, and is
enclosed with walls of great strength, and beautified with fine
buildings and a tower; it was an ancient castle, of which old annals
speak in this manner: King Edward, A.D. 1359, began a new building
in that part of the Castle of Windsor where he was born; for which
reason he took care it should be decorated with larger and finer
edifices than the rest. In this part were kept prisoners John, King
of France, and David, King of Scots, over whom Edward triumphed at
one and the same time: it was by their advice, struck with the
advantage of its situation, and with the sums paid for their ransom,
that by degrees this castle stretched to such magnificence, as to
appear no longer a fortress, but a town of proper extent, and
inexpugnable to any human force. This particular part of the castle
was built at the sole expense of the King of Scotland, except one
tower, which, from its having been erected by the Bishop of
Winchester, Prelate of the Order, is called Winchester Tower; {14}
there are a hundred steps to it, so ingeniously contrived that
horses can easily ascend them; it is a hundred and fifty paces in
circuit; within it are preserved all manner of arms necessary for
the defence of the place.
The third court is much the largest of any, built at the expense of
the captive King of France; as it stands higher, so it greatly
excels the two former in splendour and elegance; it has one hundred
and forty-eight paces in length, and ninety-seven in breadth; in the
middle of it is a fountain of very clear water, brought under
ground, at an excessive expense, from the distance of four miles.
Towards the east are magnificent apartments destined for the royal
household; towards the west is a tennis-court for the amusement of
the Court; on the north side are the royal apartments, consisting of
magnificent chambers, halls, and bathing-rooms, {15} and a private
chapel, the roof of which is embellished with golden roses and
FLEURS-DE-LIS: in this, too, is that very large banqueting-room,
seventy-eight paces long, and thirty wide, in which the Knights of
the Garter annually celebrate the memory of their tutelar saint, St.
George, with a solemn and most pompous service.
From hence runs a walk of incredible beauty, three hundred and
eighty paces in length, set round on every side with supporters of
wood, which sustain a balcony, from whence the nobility and persons
of distinction can take the pleasure of seeing hunting and hawking
in a lawn of sufficient space; for the fields and meadows, clad with
variety of plants and flowers, swell gradually into hills of
perpetual verdure quite up to the castle, and at bottom stretch out
in an extended plain, that strikes the beholders with delight.
Besides what has been already mentioned, there are worthy of notice
here two bathing-rooms, ceiled and wainscoted with looking-glass;
the chamber in which Henry VI. was born; Queen Elizabeth's
bedchamber, where is a table of red marble with white streaks; a
gallery everywhere ornamented with emblems and figures; a chamber in
which are the royal beds of Henry VII. and his Queen, of Edward VI.,
of Henry VIII., and of Anne Boleyn, all of them eleven feet square,
and covered with quilts shining with gold and silver; Queen
Elizabeth's bed, with curious coverings of embroidery, but not quite
so long or large as the others; a piece of tapestry, in which is
represented Clovis, King of France, with an angel presenting to him
the FLEURS-DE-LIS to be borne in his arms; for before his time the
Kings of France bore three toads in their shield, instead of which
they afterwards placed three FLEURS-DE-LIS on a blue field; this
antique tapestry is said to have been taken from a King of France,
while the English were masters there. We were shown here, among
other things, the horn of a unicorn, of above eight spans and a half
in length, valued at above 10,000 pounds; the bird of paradise,
three spans long, three fingers broad, having a blue bill of the
length of half an inch, the upper part of its head yellow, the
nether part of a . . . colour; {16} a little lower from either side
of its throat stick out some reddish feathers, as well as from its
back and the rest of its body; its wings, of a yellow colour, are
twice as long as the bird itself; from its back grow out lengthways
two fibres or nerves, bigger at their ends, but like a pretty strong
thread, of a leaden colour, inclining to black, with which, as it
has not feet, it is said to fasten itself to trees when it wants to
rest; a cushion most curiously wrought by Queen Elizabeth's own
hands.
In the precincts of Windsor, on the other side the Thames, both
whose banks are joined by a bridge of wood, is Eton, a well-built
College, and famous school for polite letters, founded by Henry VI.;
where, besides a master, eight fellows and chanters, sixty boys are
maintained gratis. They are taught grammar, and remain in the
school till, upon trial made of their genius and progress in study,
they are sent to the University of Cambridge.
As we were returning to our inn, we happened to meet some country
people CELEBRATING THEIR HARVEST HOME; their last load of corn they
crown with flowers, having besides an image richly dressed, by
which, perhaps, they would signify Ceres; this they keep moving
about, while men and women, men and maid servants, riding through
the streets in the cart, shout as loud as they can till they arrive
at the barn. The farmers here do not bind up their corn in sheaves,
as they do with us, but directly as they have reaped or mowed it,
put it into carts, and convey it into their barns.
We went through the town of Staines.
Hampton Court, a Royal Palace, magnificently built with brick by
Cardinal Wolsey in ostentation of his wealth, where he enclosed five
very ample courts, consisting of noble edifices in very beautiful
work. Over the gate in the second area is the Queen's device, a
golden Rose, with this motto, "Dieu et mon Droit:" on the inward
side of this gate are the effigies of the twelve Roman Emperors in
plaster. The chief area is paved with square stone; in its centre
is a fountain that throws up water, covered with a gilt crown, on
the top of which is a statue of Justice, supported by columns of
black and white marble. The chapel of this palace is most splendid,
in which the Queen's closet is quite transparent, having its window
of crystal. We were led into two chambers, called the presence, or
chambers of audience, which shone with tapestry of gold and silver
and silk of different colours: under the canopy of state are these
words embroidered in pearl, "VIVAT HENRICUS OCTAVUS." Here is
besides a small chapel richly hung with tapestry, where the Queen
performs her devotions. In her bedchamber the bed was covered with
very costly coverlids of silk: at no great distance from this room
we were shown a bed, the tester of which was worked by Anne Boleyn,
and presented by her to her husband Henry VIII. All the other
rooms, being very numerous, are adorned with tapestry of gold,
silver, and velvet, in some of which were woven history pieces; in
others, Turkish and American dresses, all extremely natural.
In the hall are these curiosities:
A very clear looking-glass, ornamented with columns and little
images of alabaster; a portrait of Edward VI., brother to Queen
Elizabeth; the true portrait of Lucretia; a picture of the battle of
Pavia; the history of Christ's passion, carved in mother-of-pearl;
the portraits of Mary Queen of Scots, who was beheaded, and her
daughter; {17} the picture of Ferdinand, Prince of Spain, and of
Philip his son; that of Henry VIII.--under it was placed the Bible
curiously written upon parchment; an artificial sphere; several
musical instruments; in the tapestry are represented negroes riding
upon elephants. The bed in which Edward VI. is said to have been
born, and where his mother Jane Seymour died in child-bed. In one
chamber were several excessively rich tapestries, which are hung up
when the Queen gives audience to foreign ambassadors; there were
numbers of cushions ornamented with gold and silver; many
counterpanes and coverlids of beds lined with ermine: in short, all
the walls of the palace shine with gold and silver. Here is besides
a certain cabinet called Paradise, where besides that everything
glitters so with silver, gold, and jewels, as to dazzle one's eyes,
there is a musical instrument made all of glass, except the strings.
Afterwards we were led into the gardens, which are most pleasant;
here we saw rosemary so planted and nailed to the walls as to cover
them entirely, which is a method exceeding common in England.
Kingston, a market town.
Nonesuch, a royal retreat, in a place formerly called Cuddington, a
very healthful situation, chosen by King Henry VIII. for his
pleasure and retirement, and built by him with an excess of
magnificence and elegance, even to ostentation: one would imagine
everything that architecture can perform to have been employed in
this one work. There are everywhere so many statues that seem to
breathe so many miracles of consummate art, so many casts that rival
even the perfection of Roman antiquity, that it may well claim and
justify its name of Nonesuch, being without an equal; or as the post
sung -
"This, which no equal has in art or fame,
Britons deservedly do NONESUCH name."
The palace itself is so encompassed with parks full of deer,
delicious gardens, groves ornamented with trellis-work, cabinets of
verdure, and walks so embrowned by trees, that it seems to be a
place pitched upon by Pleasure herself, to dwell in along with
Health.
In the pleasure and artificial gardens are many columns and pyramids
of marble, two fountains that spout water one round the other like a
pyramid, upon which are perched small birds that stream water out of
their bills. In the Grove of Diana is a very agreeable fountain,
with Actaeon turned into a stag, as he was sprinkled by the goddess
and her nymphs, with inscriptions.
There is besides another pyramid of marble full of concealed pipes,
which spurt upon all who come within their reach.
Returned from hence to London.
A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF ENGLAND.
Britain, consisting of the two kingdoms of England and Scotland, is
the largest island in the world, encompassed by the ocean, the
German and French seas. The largest and southern part of it is
England, so named from the Angli, who quitting the little territory
yet called Angel in the kingdom of Denmark, took possession here.
It is governed by its own King, who owns no superior but God. It is
divided into thirty-nine counties, to which thirteen in Wales were
added by Henry VIII., the first who distributed that principality
into counties; over each of these, in times of danger, a lord
lieutenant, nominated by the King, presides with an unlimited power.
Every year some gentleman, an inhabitant of the place, is appointed
sheriff; his office is to collect the public moneys, to raise fines,
or to make seizures, and account for it to the Treasury; to attend
upon the judges, and put their sentence in execution; to empanel the
jury, who sit upon facts, and return their verdict to the judges
(who in England are only such of the law, and not of the fact); to
convey the condemned to execution, and to dertermine in lesser
causes, for the greater are tried by the judges, formerly called
travelling judges of assize; these go their circuits through the
counties twice every year to hear causes, and pronounce sentence
upon prisoners.
As to ecclesiastical jurisdiction, after the Popes had assigned a
church and parish to every priest, Honorius, Archbishop of
Canterbury, about the year 636, began to divide England in the same
manner into parishes: as it has two Provinces, so it has two
Archbishops: the one of Canterbury, Primate and Metropolitan of all
England; the other of York: subject to these are twenty-five
bishops, viz., twenty-two to Canterbury, the remaining three to
York.
The soil is fruitful, and abounds with cattle, which inclines the
inhabitants rather to feeding than ploughing, so that near a third
part of the land is left uncultivated for grazing. The climate is
most temperate at all times, and the air never heavy, consequently
maladies are scarcer, and less physic is used there than anywhere
else. There are but few rivers; though the soil is productive, it
bears no wine; but that want is supplied from abroad by the best
kinds, as of Orleans, Gascon, Rhenish, and Spanish. The general
drink is beer, which is prepared from barley, and is excellently
well tasted, but strong, and what soon fuddles. There are many
hills without one tree, or any spring, which produce a very short
and tender grass, and supply plenty of food to sheep; upon these
wander numerous flocks, extremely white, and whether from the
temperature of the air, or goodness of the earth, bearing softer and
finer fleeces than those of any other country: this is the true
Golden Fleece, in which consist the chief riches of the inhabitants,
great sums of money being brought into the island by merchants,
chiefly for that article of trade. The dogs here are particularly
good. It has mines of gold, silver, and tin (of which all manner of
table utensils are made, in brightness equal to silver, and used all
over Europe), of lead, and of iron, but not much of the latter. The
horses are small but swift. Glasshouses are in plenty here.
OF THE MANNERS OF THE ENGLISH.
The English are serious, like the Germans; lovers of show, liking to
be followed wherever they go by whole troops of servants, who wear
their masters' arms in silver, fastened to their left arms, a
ridicule they deservedly lie under. They excel in dancing and
music, for they are active and lively, though of a thicker make than
the French; they cut their hair close on the middle of the head,
letting it grow on either side; they are good sailors, and better
pirates, cunning, treacherous and thievish; above three hundred are
said to be hanged annually at London; beheading with them is less
infamous than hanging; they give the wall as the place of honour;
hawking is the general sport of the gentry; they are more polite in
eating than the French, devouring less bread, but more meat, which
they roast in perfection; they put a great deal of sugar in their
drink; their beds are covered with tapestry, even those of farmers;
they are often molested with the scurvy, said to have first crept
into England with the Norman Conquest; their houses are commonly of
two storeys, except in London, where they are of three and four,
though but seldom of four; they are built of wood, those of the
richer sort with bricks; their roofs are low, and, where the owner
has money, covered with lead.
They are powerful in the field, successful against their enemies,
impatient of anything like slavery; vastly fond of great noises that
fill the ear, such as the firing of cannon, drums, and the ringing
of bells, so that it is common for a number of them, that have got a
glass in their heads, to go up into the belfry, and ring the bells
for hours together for the sake of exercise. If they see a
foreigner very well made, or particularly handsome, they will say,
"It is a pity he is not an Englishman!"
THE ILLUSTRIOUS FAMILIES OF ENGLAND
Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk, hereditary Marshal of England: the
duchy is extinct for rebellion, the last duke being beheaded.
Grey, Duke of Suffolk, attainted under Queen Mary.
Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel in his mother's right, and of Surrey
by his father, son of the abovementioned Duke of Norfolk, he himself
condemned for high treason, and his titles forfeited.
Edward Vere, Earl of Oxford, hereditary Chamberlain of England.
Percy, Earl of Northumberland, descended from the Dukes of Brabant.
Charles Nevill, Earl of Westmoreland, banished into Holland, and
deprived of his fortunes and dignities for rebellion.
Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury.
Grey, Earl of Kent, has but a small estate.
Stanley, Earl of Derby, and King of Man.
Manners, Earl of Rutland.
Somerset, Earl of Worcester, descended from a bastard of the
Somerset family, which itself is of the royal family of the
Plantagenets.
Clifford, Earl of Cumberland.
Ratcliff, Earl of Sussex.
Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon, of the line of York, by the mother's
side.
Bourchier, Earl of Bath.
Ambrose Sutton, alias Dudley, Earl of Warwick, died a few years
since, childless.
Wriothesly, Earl of Southampton.
Russell, Earl of Bedford.
Herbert, Earl of Pembroke.
Edward Seymour, Earl of Hertford, son of the Duke of Somerset, who
was beheaded in the reign of Edward VI.
Robert Sutton, or Dudley, Earl of Leicester, brother of the Earl of
Warwick, died a few years ago.
Robert d'Evereux, Earl of Essex, and of Ewe in Normandy, created
hereditary Marshal of England in 1598.
Charles Howard, of the Norfolk family, created Earl of Nottingham,
1597, Lord High Admiral of England, and Privy Counsellor.
Fynes, Earl of Lincoln.
Brown, Viscount Montacute.
Howard, of the Norfolk family, Viscount Bindon.
Nevill, Baron Abergavenny; this barony is controverted.
Touchet, Baron Audley.
Zouch, Baron Zouch.
Peregrine Bertie, Baron Willoughby of Eresby and Brooke, Governor of
Berwick.
Berkley, Baron Berkley, of the ancient family of the Kings of
Denmark.
Parker, Baron Morley.
Dacre, Baron Dacre of Gyllesland: this barony is vacant.
Dacre, Baron Dacre of the South: he died four years since, and the
barony devolved to his daughter.
Brook, Baron Cobham, Warden of the Cinque Ports.
Stafford, Baron Stafford, reduced to want; he is heir to the family
of the Dukes of Buckingham, who were hereditary Constables of
England.
Gray, Baron Gray of Wilton.
Scroop, Baron Scroop of Boulton.
Sutton, Baron Dudley.
Stourton, Baron Stourton.
Nevill, Baron Latimer, died some years since without heirs male; the
title controverted.
Lumley, Baron Lumley.
Blunt, Baron Montjoy.
Ogle, Baron Ogle.
Darcy, Baron Darcy.
Parker, Baron Montegle, son and heir of Baron Morley; he has this
barony in right of his mother, of the family of Stanley.
Sandys, Baron Sandys.
Vaux, Baron Vaux.
Windsor, Baron Windsor.
Wentworth, Baron Wentworth.
Borough, Baron Borough, reduced to want.
Baron Mordaunt. Baron Eure.
Baron Rich. Baron Sheffield.
Baron North, Privy Counsellor, and Treasurer of the Household.
Baron Hunsdon, Privy Counsellor, and Lord Chamberlain.
Sackville, Baron Buckhurst, Privy Counsellor.
Thomas Cecil, Baron Burleigh, son of the Treasurer.
Cecil, Lord Roos, grandson of the Treasurer, yet a child: he holds
the barony in right of his mother, daughter to the Earl of Rutland.
Howard of Maltravers, son of the Earl of Arundel, not yet restored
in blood.
Baron Cheyny.
Baron Cromwell. Baron Wharton.
Baron Willoughby of Parham.
Baron Pagett, in exile, attainted.
Baron Chandois. Baron St. John.
Baron Delaware: his ancestors took the King of France prisoner.
Baron Compton, has squandered almost all his substance.
Baron Norris.
Thomas Howard, second son of the Duke of Norfolk, Baron Audley of
Saffronwalden, in his mother's right.
William, third son of the Duke of Norfolk, is neither a baron, nor
yet restored in blood.
Thus far of noble families.
We set out from London in a boat, and fell down the river, leaving
Greenwich, which we have spoken of before, on the right hand.
Barking, a town in sight on the left.
Gravesend, a small town, famous for the convenience of its port; the
largest Dutch ships usually call here. As we were to proceed
farther from hence by water, we took our last leave here of the
noble Bohemian David Strziela, and his tutor Tobias Salander, our
constant fellow-travellers through France and England, they
designing to return home through Holland, we on a second tour into
France; but it pleased Heaven to put a stop to their design, for the
worthy Strziela was seized with a diarrhoea a few days before our
departure, and, as we afterwards learned by letters from Salander,
died in a few days of a violent fever in London.
Queenborough: we left the castle on our right; a little farther we
saw the fishing of oysters out of the sea, which are nowhere in
greater plenty or perfection; witness Ortelius in his Epitome, &c.
Whitstable; here we went ashore.
Canterbury; we came to it on foot; this is the seat of the
Archbishop, Primate of all England, a very ancient town, and,
without doubt, of note in the time of the Romans.
Here are two monasteries almost contiguous, namely of Christ and St.
Augustine, both of them once filled with Benedictine Monks: the
former was afterwards dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket, the name of
Christ being obliterated; it stands almost in the middle of the
town, and with so much majesty lifts itself, and its two towers, to
a stupendous height, that, as Erasmus says, it strikes even those
who only see it at a distance with awe.
In the choir, which is shut up with iron rails, are the following
monuments:-
King Henry IV., with his wife Joan of Navarre, of white marble.
Nicholas Wootton, Privy Counsellor to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary,
and Elizabeth, Kings and Queens of England.
Of Prince Edward, Duke of Aquitaine and Cornwall, and Earl of
Chester.
Reginald Pole, with this inscription:
"The remains of Reginald Pole, Cardinal and Archbishop of
Canterbury."
Cardinal Chatillon.
We were then shown the chair in which the bishops are placed when
they are installed. In the vestibule of the church, on the south
side, stand the statues of three men armed, cut in stone, who slew
Thomas a Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, made a saint for this
martyrdom; their names are adjoined -
Tusci, Fusci, Berri. {18}
Being tired with walking, we refreshed ourselves here with a
mouthful of bread and some ale, and immediately mounted post-horses,
and arrived about two or three o'clock in the morning at Dover. In
our way to it, which was rough and dangerous enough, the following
accident happened to us: our guide, or postillion, a youth, was
before with two of our company, about the distance of a musketshot;
we, by not following quick enough, had lost sight of our friends; we
came afterwards to where the road divided; on the right it was down-
hill and marshy, on the left was a small hill: whilst we stopped
here in doubt, and consulted which of the roads we should take, we
saw all on a sudden on our right hand some horsemen, their stature,
dress, and horses exactly resembling those of our friends; glad of
having found them again, we determined to set on after them; but it
happened, through God's mercy, that though we called to them, they
did not answer us, but kept on down the marshy road at such a rate,
that their horses' feet struck fire at every stretch, which made us,
with reason, begin to suspect they were thieves, having had warning
of such; or rather, that they were nocturnal spectres, who, as we
were afterwards told, are frequently seen in those places: there
were likewise a great many Jack-a-lanterns, so that we were quite
seized with horror and amazement! But, fortunately for us, our
guide soon after sounded his horn, and we, following the noise,
turned down the left-hand road, and arrived safe to our companions;
who, when we had asked them if they had not seen the horsemen who
had gone by us, answered, not a soul. Our opinions, according to
custom, were various upon this matter; but whatever the thing was,
we were, without doubt, in imminent danger, from which that we
escaped, the glory is to be ascribed to God alone.
Dover, situated among cliffs (standing where the port itself was
originally, as may be gathered from anchors and parts of vessels dug
up there), is more famous for the convenience of its port, which
indeed is now much decayed, and its passage to France, than for
either its elegance or populousness: this passage, the most used
and the shortest, is of thirty miles, which, with a favourable wind,
may be run over in five or six hours' time, as we ourselves
experienced; some reckon it only eighteen to Calais, and to Boulogne
sixteen English miles, which, as Ortelius says in his "Theatrum,"
are longer than the Italian.
Here was a church dedicated to St. Martin by Victred, King of Kent,
and a house belonging to the Knights Templars; of either there are
now no remains. It is the seat of a suffragan to the Archbishop of
Canterbury, who, when the Archbishop is employed upon business of
more consequence, manages the ordinary affairs, but does not
interfere with the archiepiscopal jurisdiction. Upon a hill, or
rather rock, which on its right side is almost everywhere a
precipice, a very extensive castle rises to a surprising height, in
size like a little city, extremely well fortified, and thick-set
with towers, and seems to threaten the sea beneath. Matthew Paris
calls it the door and key of England; the ordinary people have taken
into their heads that it was built by Julius Caesar; it is likely it
might by the Romans, from those British bricks in the chapel which
they made use of in their foundations. See Camden's "Britannia."
After we had dined, we took leave of England.
FRAGMENTA REGALIA
OR, OBSERVATIONS ON THE LATE QUEEN ELIZABETH, HER TIMES, AND
FAVOURITES. WRITTEN BY Sir Robert Naunton, MASTER OF THE COURT OF
WARDS. A.D. 1641.
To take her in the original, she was the daughter of King Henry
VIII. by Anne Boleyn, the second of six wives which he had, and one
of the maids of honour to the divorced Queen, Katharine of Austria
(or, as the now styled, Infanta of Spain), and from thence taken to
the royal bed.
That she was of a most noble and royal extract by her father will
not fall into question, for on that side was disembogued into her
veins, by a confluency of blood, the very abstract of all the
greatest houses in Christendom: and remarkable it is, considering
that violent desertion of the Royal House of the Britons by the
intrusion of the Saxons, and afterwards by the conquest of the
Normans, that, through vicissitude of times, and after a
discontinuance almost of a thousand years, the sceptre should fall
again and be brought back into the old regal line and true current
of the British blood, in the person of her renowned grandfather,
King Henry VII., together with whatsoever the German, Norman,
Burgundian, Castilian, and French achievements, with their
intermarriages, which eight hundred years had acquired, could add of
glory thereunto.
By her mother she was of no sovereign descent, yet noble and very
ancient in the family of Boleyn; though some erroneously brand them
with a citizen's rise or original, which was yet but of a second
brother, who (as it was divine in the greatness and lustre to come
to his house) was sent into the city to acquire wealth, AD
AEDIFICANDAM ANTIQUAM DOMUM, unto whose achievements (for he was
Lord Mayor of London) fell in, as it is averred, both the blood and
inheritance of the eldest brother for want of issue males, by which
accumulation the house within few descents mounted, IN CULMEN
HONORIS, and was suddenly dilated in the best families of England
and Ireland: as Howard, Ormond, Sackville, and others.
Having thus touched, and now leaving her stirp, I come to her
person, and how she came to the crown by the decease of her brother
and sister.
Under Edward VI. she was his, and one of the darlings of Fortune,
for, besides the consideration of blood, there was between these two
princes a concurrency and sympathy of their natures and affections,
together with the celestial bond (confirmative religion), which made
them one; for the King never called her by any other appellation but
his sweetest and dearest sister, and was scarce his own man, she
being absent; which was not so between him and the Lady Mary.
Under her sister {19} she found her condition much altered; for it
was resolved, and her destiny had decreed it, for to set her
apprentice in the school of affliction, and to draw her through that
ordeal-fire of trial, the better to mould and fashion her to rule
and sovereignty: which finished, Fortune calling to mind that the
time of her servitude was expired, gave up her indentures, and
therewith delivered into her custody a sceptre as the reward of her
patience; which was about the twenty-sixth of her age: a time in
which, as for her internals grown ripe, and seasoned by adversity,
in the exercise of her virtue; for, it seems, Fortune meant no more
but to show her a piece of variety and changeableness of her nature,
but to conduct her to her destiny, I.E., felicity.
She was of person tall, of hair and complexion fair, and therewith
well favoured, but high-nosed; of limbs and features neat; and,
which added to the lustre of these external graces, of a stately and
majestic comportment, participating in this more of her father than
of her mother, who was of an inferior alloy, plausible, or, as the
French hath it, more DEBONAIRE and affable: virtues which might
well suit with majesty, and which, descending as hereditary to the
daughter, did render her of a sweeter temper, and endeared her more
to the love and liking of the people, who gave her the name and fame
of a most gracious and popular princess.
The atrocity of the father's nature was rebated in her by the
mother's sweeter inclinations; for (to take, and that no more than
the character out of his own mouth) HE NEVER SPARED MAN IN HIS
ANGER, NOR WOMAN IN HIS LUST.
If we search farther into her intellectuals and abilities, the
wheel-course of her government deciphers them to the admiration of
posterity; for it was full of magnanimity, tempered with justice,
piety, and pity, and, to speak truth, noted but with one act of
stain, or taint, all her deprivations, either of life or liberty,
being legal and necessitated. She was learned, her sex and time
considered, beyond common belief; for letters about this time, or
somewhat before, did but begin to be of esteem and in fashion, the
former ages being overcast with the mists and fogs of the Roman {20}
ignorance; and it was the maxim that over-ruled the foregoing times,
that IGNORANCE WAS THE MOTHER OF DEVOTION. Her wars were a long
time more in the auxiliary part, and assistance of foreign princes
and states, than by invasion of any; till common policy advised it,
for a safer way, to strike first abroad, than at home to expect the
war, in all which she was ever felicitous and victorious.
The change and alteration of religion upon the instant of her
accession to the crown (the smoke and fire of her sister's
martyrdoms scarcely quenched) was none of her least remarkable
actions; but the support and establishment thereof, with the means
of her own subsistence amidst so powerful enemies abroad, and those
many domestic practices, were, methinks, works of inspiration, and
of no human providence, which, on her sister's departure, she most
religiously acknowledged--ascribing the glory of her deliverance to
God above; for she being then at Hatfield, and under a guard, and
the Parliament sitting at the self-same time, at the news of the
Queen's death, and her own proclamation by the general consent of
the House and the public sufferance of the people, falling on her
knees, after a good time of respiration, she uttered this verse of
the Psalm:
"A DOMINO FACTUM EST ISTUD, ET EST MIRABILE IN OCULIS NOSTRIS." {21}
And this we find to this day on the stamp of her gold, with this on
her silver:
" POSUI DEUM ADJUTOREM MEUM." {22}
Her ministers and instruments of State, such as were PARTICIPES
CURARUM, or bore a great part of the burthen, were MANY, and those
MEMORABLE; but they were only FAVOURITES, and not MINIONS; such as
acted more by HER princely rules and judgments, than by their OWN
wills and appetites; for we saw no Gaveston, Vere, or Spencer, to
have swayed alone, during forty-four years, which was a well-settled
and advised maxim; for it valued her the more, it awed the most
secure, it took best with the people, and it staved off all
emulations, which are apt to rise and vent in obloquious acrimony
even against the prince, where there is ONE ONLY admitted into high
administrations.
A MAJOR PALATII
The principal note of her reign will be, that she ruled much by
faction and parties, which she herself both made, upheld, and
weakened, as her own great judgment advised; for I do dissent from
the common and received opinion, that my Lord of Leicester was
ABSOLUTE and ALONE in her GRACE; and, though I come somewhat short
of the knowledge of these times, yet, that I may not err or shoot at
random, I know it from assured intelligence that it was not so; for
proof whereof, amongst many (that could present), I will both relate
a story, and therein a known truth, and it was thus: Bowyer, the
Gentleman of the Black Rod, being charged by her express command to
look precisely to all admissions in the Privy Chamber, one day
stayed a very gay captain (and a follower of my Lord of Leicester)
from entrance, for that he was neither well known, nor a sworn
servant of the Queen; at which repulse, the gentleman (bearing high
on my lord's favour) told him that he might, perchance, procure him
a discharge. Leicester coming to the contestation, said publicly,
which was none of his wonted speeches, that he was a knave, and
should not long continue in his office; and so turning about to go
to the Queen, Bowyer, who was a bold gentleman and well-beloved,
stepped before him, and fell at Her Majesty's feet, relates the
story, and humbly craves Her Grace's pleasure, and in such a manner
as if he had demanded whether my Lord of Leicester was King, or Her
Majesty Queen: whereunto she replied (with her wonted oath, GOD'S-
DEATH) "My lord, I have wished you well, but my favour is not so
locked up for you that others shall not participate thereof; for I
have many servants unto whom I have, and will, at my pleasure,
bequeath my favour, and likewise resume the same; and if you think
to rule here, I will take a course to see you forthcoming; {23} I
will have here but one MISTRESS, and no MASTER; and look that no ill
happen to him, lest it be severely required at your hands:" which so
quailed my Lord of Leicester, that his faint humility was, long
after, one of his best virtues.
Moreover, the Earl of Sussex, then Lord Chamberlain, was his
professed antagonist to his dying day; and for my Lord Hunsdown, and
Sir Thomas Sackville, after Lord Treasurer, who were all
contemporaries, he was wont to say of them, that they were of the
tribe of Dan, and were NOLI ME TANGERE, implying that they were not
to be contested with, for they were, indeed, of the Queen's nigh
kindred.
From whence, and in many more instances, I conclude that she was
absolute and sovereign mistress of her graces, and that all those to
whom she distributed her favours were never more than tenants-at-
will, and stood on no better terms than her princely pleasure, and
their good behaviour.
And this also I present as a known observation, that she was, though
very capable of counsel, absolute enough in her own resolution;
which was ever apparent even to her last, and in that of her still
aversion to grant Tyrone {24} the least drop of her mercy, though
earnestly and frequently advised thereunto, yea, wrought only by her
whole Council of State, with very many reasons; and, as the state of
her kingdom then stood, I may speak it with assurance, necessitated
arguments.
If we look into her inclination, as it was disposed to magnificence
or frugality, we shall find in them many notable considerations; for
all her dispensations were so poised as though Discretion and
Justice had both decreed to stand at the beam, and see them weighed
out in due proportion, the maturity of her paces and judgments
meeting in a concurrence; and that in such an age that seldom
lapseth to excess.
To consider them apart, we have not many precedents of her
LIBERALITY, nor any large donatives to PARTICULAR men, my Lord of
Essex's book of PARKS excepted, which was a princely gift; and some
more of a lesser size to my Lord of Leicester, Hatton, and others.
Her rewards chiefly consisted in grants and leases of offices, and
places of judicature; but for ready money, and in great sums, she
was very sparing; which, we may partly conceive, was a virtue rather
drawn out of necessity than her nature; for she had many layings-
out, and as her wars were lasting, so their charge increased to the
last period. And I am of opinion with Sir Walter Raleigh, that
those many brave men of her times, and of the militia, tasted little
more of her bounty than in her grace and good word with their due
entertainment; for she ever paid her soldiers well, which was the
honour of her times, and more than her great adversary of Spain
could perform; so that when we come to the consideration of her
FRUGALITY, the observation will be little more than that her BOUNTY
and it were so woven together, that the one was {25} stained by an
honourable way of sparing.
The Irish action we may call a malady, and a consumption of her
times, for it accompanied her to her end; and it was of so profuse
and vast an expense, that it drew near unto a distemperature of
State, and of passion in herself; for, towards her last, she grew
somewhat hard to please, her armies being accustomed to prosperity,
and the Irish prosecution not answering her expectation, and her
wonted success; for it was a good while an unthrifty and
inauspicious war, which did much disturb and mislead her judgment;
and the more for that it was a precedent taken out of her own
pattern.
For as the Queen, by way of division, had, at her coming to the
crown, supported the revolted States of Holland, so did the King of
Spain turn the trick upon herself, towards